OBSIDIAN — Spec Footwear Concept for Nike-Level Innovation Lines
DESIGN
BRIEF
Project
OBSIDIAN
Season
FW26
Category
Basketball / Lifestyle
Retail Target
$195–$240 USD
OBSIDIAN — Concept Sketch
Concept Sketch — Marker on Paper
Design Callouts
01
Engineered Knit Upper
Black base yarn with metallic gold/bronze Lurex fleck integrated throughout. Zoned construction — tighter gauge at toe and heel for structure, open weave at midfoot for breathability, loop pile at collar for fit and comfort.
02
Faceted TPU Midsole
3D-printed TPU chassis with crystalline low-poly geometry. Tonal black, semi-gloss finish achieved through material compound — no paint. The geometry must hold at retail distance and on-foot.
03
Selective Rubber Outsole
Black rubber pads applied to ground-contact facet faces only — no full cupsole. Rubber integrates into the facet geometry rather than reading as applied patches.
04
Material Contrast Logic
Tonal black throughout. Visual tension is entirely textural — soft luminous knit against hard geometric TPU. Metallic yarn activates under incandescent and raking light. The shoe reads differently in different lighting conditions. That is intentional.
05
Strobel Bootie Construction
Knit upper sewn to strobel sock at base. Slip-lasted over strobel board insert before midsole bond. Knit edge sealed before bonding to prevent adhesive wicking into knit face.
Lateral View
Lateral View
Heel View
Heel — Three-Quarter
Front View
Front — Three-Quarter
Heel Pull Tab
Heel Pull Tab — Woven Nylon
Ref: U-09
Tongue Detail
Tongue — Knit / Foam Composite
Ref: U-04
Laces + Aglet
Lace + Aglet — Tubular / Rose Gold Hardware
Ref: U-07 / U-08
The contrast is not between
colors. It is between
materials.
OBSIDIAN — Design Principle
01Background + Opportunity

The basketball silhouette has become the dominant footwear canvas for cultural expression. But the category has converged on a narrow formal language: foam stacks, translucent windows, woven uppers, and maximalist colorways competing for attention at shelf.

OBSIDIAN proposes a different posture. Restraint in the upper. Radicalism in the sole. Rather than distributing visual complexity across the entire shoe, OBSIDIAN concentrates it at the foundation — a faceted, crystalline midsole that reads as though the shoe was carved from a single geological mass.

The upper and midsole are made in completely different production environments — a precision loom and an additive manufacturing cell — and bonded into a single object. That duality is the story. Not as a technical footnote, but as the design premise itself.

Market Context

Premium lifestyle basketball is bifurcating. One direction: maximized performance tech expressed as surface aesthetic. The other: a quieter, structural design language drawn from architecture, sculpture, and industrial form. OBSIDIAN occupies the second position — currently underserved within Nike's own portfolio.

Reference signals in the market point in this direction: geometric sole language, material intelligence over logo dependence, and construction legibility as a luxury signal. None of the clearest executions of this language currently sit within Nike. That is the opportunity.

02Consumer Target
Primary Consumer
Age Range24–34
ProfileDesign-literate. Responds to material intelligence over logo volume. Reads texture before colorway. Collects intentionally. Will notice the metallic yarn in person — not before.
IncomeMid-to-high. Comfortable at $195–240 for a shoe with a clear material and construction story.
GeographyUrban. US (NY, LA, CHI, ATL), Tokyo, Seoul, London, Paris.
DiscoverySNKRS, editorial, in-store at key accounts. This shoe earns its audience in person — digital imagery will not capture the metallic activation. Retail placement matters.
Reference BuysComme des Garçons x Nike, NikeLab exclusives, Sacai collab footwear, high-end Y-3 silhouettes.
Secondary Consumer

Basketball heritage consumer drawn to premium Jordan Brand and NikeLab releases. Age 28–42. More likely to wear on-foot than the primary consumer. Responds to the construction quality and material weight of the knit upper. May not identify the midsole as 3D-printed but will register it as premium and distinct. The shoe presents as a complete, resolved object — which is enough for this consumer.

03Design Pillars
Pillar 01
Foundation as Statement
The midsole is not a platform. It is a declaration. OBSIDIAN's faceted sole unit is the structural logic of the shoe — not a decorative finish applied to an otherwise conventional construction. Every design decision in the upper exists in service of letting the sole read clearly. The upper restrains. The sole releases.
Pillar 02
Material Contrast Without Color
The shoe is tonal black across all components. Contrast is achieved entirely through material character — soft luminous knit against hard geometric TPU, metallic yarn against matte-to-semi-gloss faceted planes. This is a more demanding design position than color differentiation. It rewards proximity and punishes bad photography.
Pillar 03
Structural Confidence
OBSIDIAN is a mid-top of a specific type: confident and upright, not aggressive or sport-coded. The ankle rises cleanly, the collar sits without flare, and the midsole grounds the shoe with mass and presence. Tonal black amplifies this — the shoe reads as a single coherent mass from a distance. This shoe does not lean. It stands.
Pillar 04
Two Manufacturing Worlds, One Object
The engineered knit upper and the 3D-printed TPU midsole represent two completely different production categories — a precision loom and an additive manufacturing cell — bonded into a single object. The seam between them is not a problem to be hidden. It is the most interesting place on the shoe.
04Design Direction
Upper

Engineered knit — black base with metallic gold/bronze Lurex fleck yarn integrated throughout. No external overlays, no leather panels, no applied graphics. The surface is entirely knit, with internal structure provided by a bonded TPU toe cap and a thermoplastic heel counter. Zoned construction: tighter gauge at toe and heel for shape retention, open weave at midfoot for breathability, soft loop pile at collar for fit and comfort. The collar transition should be seamless — no change in outer surface character, only in knit density.

The metallic fleck should read as embedded in the material — not applied on top of it. The yarn activates under incandescent and raking light, and reads more subtly under flat or fluorescent sources. The shoe should look different in a retail environment than it does under natural light outdoors. This is a feature, not an inconsistency. Plan campaign photography accordingly.

Midsole

Low-poly faceted geometry across the full midsole volume — crystalline reference, not biomorphic. Angular transitions, sharp ridges, flat facet planes. The geometry must hold at retail distance (4–6 feet) and maintain its character on-foot. Do not over-smooth edges for production — the point is the facets.

Tonal black. Semi-gloss finish — not matte, not full gloss. Full matte would flatten the facets and eliminate the plane differentiation that gives the midsole its depth. Full gloss would read fashion-cheap. Semi-gloss catches light on the facet planes and creates dimensionality without competing with the metallic yarn activity in the upper. Finish achieved through material compound and post-processing — no paint.

Colorway

Hero colorway: Tonal Black / Metallic Gold Fleck. All components — upper, midsole, outsole, laces, hardware — in the black family. The metallic yarn in the upper provides the only color departure. Secondary colorways to follow after first sample approval: Tonal White / Silver Fleck, Tonal Navy / Copper Fleck. The monochromatic rule applies to all — metallic yarn provides all the color accent needed. Introduce contrast colorways only after the hero has been signed off.

05Manufacturing Direction
NOTE
This shoe is built from two production categories that do not normally share a last. Factory qualification for the engineered knit upper must be confirmed before any sample work begins. Not all Tier 1 facilities have active knit capability with metallic yarn experience. This is the first critical path item.
Upper — Engineered Knit

Single-piece engineered flat knit preferred. Zone programming on the loom: structured (tighter gauge) at toe and heel, open (looser gauge) at midfoot, loop pile at collar. Metallic Lurex-type yarn blended into base yarn throughout — approximately 15–20% of total yarn count by weight. Knit upper sewn to strobel sock at base for bootie construction. Strobel edge must be sealed with heat tape or edge sealer before midsole bonding — unsealed knit wicks adhesive up into the knit face, which reads through as contamination on the tonal black upper.

Midsole — 3D-Printed TPU

3D-printed TPU chassis is the recommended production midsole — not a prototype approximation of an eventual injection-molded part. The faceted geometry as designed cannot be faithfully reproduced through standard compression or injection molding without geometric rationalization significant enough to compromise the aesthetic. The undercut facet angles and near-vertical face transitions create draft angle conflicts that would require softening incompatible with the design intent.

Print technology: SLS at prototype stage, transitioning to MJF or binder jetting at scale. The color change from the original cool grey to tonal black has no process implications — it is a material compound specification only. Semi-gloss finish may require post-processing (tumbling, vapor smoothing) — confirm approach with print partner before first sample. The midsole datum width at the upper bond interface is 10mm — wider than a standard lasted construction to compensate for reduced rigidity at the knit strobel base.

Campaign Photography

This shoe requires a multi-lighting photography strategy for all campaign assets. Flat studio light under D65 will not capture the metallic yarn activation in the upper or the facet plane highlights in the midsole. Budget for incandescent setups and raking light angles in addition to standard product photography. The shoe should be documented in at least three distinct lighting conditions. This is not a post-production note — it is a production planning requirement.

06Open Questions
Factory Qualification
Decision required at M+1. Confirm factory has active engineered knit production capability with metallic yarn experience before any sample development begins. This is the gate for everything downstream.
Midsole Mfg Path
Decision required by M+2. Print vs. mold commitment drives every tooling and factory conversation. Print is the recommendation. If mold path is required, geometry must be rationalized — that work takes time and affects the design.
Metallic Yarn
Pantone 871 C (gold) vs. 876 C (bronze undertone). Approve knit strike-off under D65 and incandescent before proceeding. Both sources look different under each light condition — both must be approved.
Midsole Semi-Gloss
Finish level requires sign-off on first-off midsole sample. No paint — finish via compound and post-processing. Confirm process (tumbling vs. vapor smoothing) with print partner before sample stage.
Business Unit Home
NikeLab / Innovation Kitchen or Jordan Brand? The shoe's direction — knit upper, printed midsole, tonal execution — sits closest to NikeLab territory. Brief should be formally directed before L/L sample stage.
Cushioning Story
No Air unit or Zoom callout in current design. Acceptable for a lifestyle-only positioning. Requires an explicit decision if any performance narrative is planned — adding cushioning technology after the midsole geometry is locked is a tooling problem.
Price Architecture
$195–240 is the current recommendation. If the 3D-printed midsole is surfaced as consumer-facing storytelling, $240+ is supportable. Channel strategy (SNKRS exclusive vs. key account distribution) affects where in that range the shoe lands.
OBSIDIAN — Spec Footwear Concept for Nike-Level Innovation Lines
OBSIDIAN
TECH PACK
Style
TBD — Pending SKU Assignment
Season
FW26
Construction
Knit Bootie / 3D-Printed TPU Midsole
Version
1.0 — Concept Submission
Concept for portfolio purposes only; not an official Nike document.
OBSIDIAN — Technical Line Drawing SK-GDM-001
SK-GDM-001 — Geometric High-Top Assembly — Scale 1:1 — Units mm — Drawing by J. Smith
01Project Overview
Project Code NameOBSIDIAN
Style NumberTBD — Pending SKU Assignment
CategoryBasketball / Lifestyle Crossover
GenderMen's — US 7 through 15, Extended to US 18
Target Retail$195–$240 USD
Sample SizeUS Men's 9
LastTBD — Recommend Jordan Brand mid-top volume last with modified toe spring
Upper ConstructionEngineered knit — strobel bootie construction
Midsole Construction3D-printed TPU chassis — SLS (proto) / MJF or binder jetting (scale)
Season TargetFW26
Development LeadNike Innovation / NikeLab (TBD)
Factory — UpperTier 1 Vietnam — must have active engineered knit capability with metallic yarn experience. Confirm before sample stage.
Factory — MidsoleNike Advanced Manufacturing Cell or approved print partner (Zellerfeld evaluation pending)
INTENT
OBSIDIAN pairs an engineered knit upper carrying metallic gold/bronze fleck yarn with a large-scale faceted TPU midsole chassis. The upper is intentionally restrained — tonal black, texture-led, no external overlays. Visual contrast is achieved entirely through material character: soft luminous knit against hard geometric TPU. The faceted midsole form is not decorative applied to a conventional sole — it is the sole, requiring a committed manufacturing decision early in development.
02Colorway — Sample 001
Colorway NameTonal Black / Metallic Gold Fleck
Style CodeTBD
Knit Base YarnBlack — Pantone Black 6 C. Primary structural yarn throughout upper.
Knit Fleck YarnMetallic Gold / Bronze — Pantone 871 C or 876 C. Confirm under D65 and incandescent. Approximately 15–20% of total yarn count. Integrated into knit structure — not embroidered or applied.
LacesRound tubular — Black. 4mm diameter. 48" standard length.
EyeletsD-ring, zinc alloy. PVD matte black. Press-set into knit reinforcement zone. 8 per side.
Pull LoopWoven tab — Black. 15mm wide.
Collar TrimBonded knit edge — no separate collar tape. Match upper base yarn.
MidsoleTonal Black — Pantone Black 6 C. Semi-gloss finish via TPU compound and post-processing. No paint. No gloss coat.
OutsoleBlack rubber — match midsole. Contact faces only. No full cupsole.
SocklinerBlack — embossed Nike branding at heel.
CRITICAL
All components — upper, midsole, outsole, laces, and hardware — must read as a cohesive black family under D65 lighting. Approve tonal match across all components on first-off sample. Color deviation between midsole and upper is a design failure, not a colorway option. The metallic yarn in the upper is the only deliberate departure from the black family and must not be replicated elsewhere.
03Upper — Bill of Materials
Ref Component Material / Source Specification
U-01Knit Upper BodyEngineered flat knit — black base yarn with metallic gold/bronze Lurex fleck. Nike Flyknit or equivalent.Single-piece construction preferred. Zoned: structured at toe/heel, open at midfoot, loop pile at collar. Metallic fleck approx. 15–20% of total yarn count.
U-02Metallic Fleck YarnPolyester / Lurex metallic yarn blend — Pantone 871 C or 876 C (confirm on strike-off)Integrated into U-01 knit structure on loom — not embroidered, not applied. Approve under D65 and incandescent. Both must be approved before sample.
U-03Toe Cap — InternalTPU toe cap — thin gauge, heat-bond to inside of knit at toe zone0.6mm gauge. Provides shape retention without altering external knit texture. No visible seam on exterior.
U-04TongueKnit-integrated — same U-01 body materialNo separate tongue panel. Knit loops over instep. Gusset construction to prevent lateral shift during wear.
U-05Collar FoamPolyurethane foam, 6mmBonded inside collar zone behind loop pile knit. No exposed foam at any point on exterior or interior finish.
U-06Heel CounterThermoplastic heel counter (TPHC)Pre-molded. Stiffness grade: medium-firm. Bonded inside knit upper at heel cup. Not visible on exterior.
U-07LacesRound tubular polyester, 4mm diameter8 pairs of eyelets. Black. 48" standard length. Round tubular profile — not flat woven.
U-08EyeletsD-ring, zinc alloyPVD matte black. Press-set into knit reinforcement zone around eyestay. 8 per side. Eyelets must not distort surrounding knit.
U-09Heel Pull TabWoven nylon tab, folded loop15mm wide. Black. Bonded or stitched through heel panel behind counter.
U-10Strobel / Bootie BaseKnit strobel sock — closed-toe bootie constructionKnit upper sewn to strobel sock at base. Slip-lasted over internal board insert. Strobel edge must be sealed — heat tape or bead edge sealer — before midsole bonding. Unsealed knit wicks adhesive.
U-11Internal Board InsertThin strobel board, 2mmInserted inside bootie after lasting. Provides dimensional stability at upper-to-midsole bond interface. Not attached to midsole — temporary during lasting process.
U-12SocklinerDual-density EVA foam, jersey knit top cover4mm total thickness. Black. Embossed Nike wordmark at heel. Removable.
U-13Bond AdhesiveHot melt + contact cement — Bostik 2402 or Nike-approved equivalentUpper-to-midsole bond line. Heat activated at 65°C, 90 seconds minimum. No visible adhesive bleed above bond line. Inspect with UV light before final assembly sign-off.
NOTE
Construction method: Strobel bootie. Knit upper is sewn to a strobel sock base and slip-lasted with an internal board insert for dimensional stability. The flexibility of the knit base requires careful handling — no direct clamp contact on the knit face during lasting. Gloves required for all upper handling after knitting.
04Midsole + Outsole
4.1 — Midsole Chassis
Construction Type3D-Printed TPU Chassis — Primary Recommendation
Print TechnologySLS (Selective Laser Sintering) at prototype and sample stage / MJF or Binder Jetting at production scale
MaterialTPU 92A — black colorant throughout material compound. No external paint or coating.
GeometryFaceted crystalline form — low-poly surface across full midsole volume. Angular transitions, sharp ridges, flat facet planes. Geometry must hold at retail viewing distance (4–6 feet).
Heel Stack HeightApprox. 45mm — subject to last confirmation and wear-test tuning
Forefoot StackApprox. 22mm
Cushioning CoreEVA drop-in pad, 10mm, bonded to interior midsole cavity. Provides ground contact cushioning independent of TPU chassis stiffness.
Minimum Edge Radius0.8mm on all facet edges. Sharper edges require tooling validation. Protect edges from crush deformation during assembly.
Midsole FinishSemi-gloss — not matte, not full gloss. Achieved via TPU compound specification and post-processing (tumbling or vapor smoothing). Approve on first-off sample under D65.
Draft AnglesSeveral facet faces are near-vertical or contain undercuts. These cannot be reproduced in standard injection mold without significant geometry rationalization. Print only at sample stage.
Bond InterfaceFlat datum surface at upper bond line — 10mm flat perimeter for adhesive contact. Increased from standard 8mm to compensate for reduced rigidity at knit strobel base. Surface must be roughened and primed before bonding.
4.2 — Outsole
TypeSelective rubber pad application — no full cupsole
MaterialSolid rubber compound — 3mm thickness at standard zones, 4mm at high-wear zones
ColorBlack — match midsole (Pantone Black 6 C). Approve tonal match on first-off.
CoverageContact faces only. Applied to flat facet faces at ground plane. Rubber integrates into facet geometry — not applied as visible patches on top of geometry.
Traction PatternNo traditional traction pattern. Facet face geometry provides natural multi-directional grip. Confirm traction adequacy in W/L wear testing.
Adhesion MethodCompression bonded to midsole facet faces. Cement + primer. Cure under pressure jig.
High-Wear ZonesHeel lateral edge and forefoot medial — 4mm pad thickness in these zones. All other contact faces: 3mm.
05Construction Notes
Knit Upper — Handling Requirements

Engineered knit uppers with metallic Lurex yarn require careful handling at all stages. Metallic yarn can snag or shed under mechanical stress. Gloves required for all upper handling after the knit comes off the loom. No direct clamp or jig contact on the knit face during lasting. Protect the knit surface during all pressing operations.

The knit strobel edge at the midsole bond line must be sealed before bonding. Use heat seal tape or a thin bead of edge sealer around the full perimeter. Unsealed knit edges will wick adhesive up into the knit face, which reads through as contamination on the tonal black surface. This is not correctable after assembly — inspect the sealed edge before bonding.

Assembly Sequence

1. Knit upper off loom — inspect for metallic yarn consistency across surface. Reject if bald patches or concentration areas present.
2. Bond internal TPU toe cap inside knit at toe zone. Bond heel counter inside knit at heel cup. Cure.
3. Sew knit upper to strobel sock base — closed-toe bootie construction.
4. Slip-last bootie over aluminum last with internal board insert. Secure.
5. Seal knit strobel edge — heat tape or edge sealer, full perimeter. Inspect before proceeding.
6. Print midsole chassis and allow full cure — 24hr minimum for SLS TPU.
7. Apply rubber pads to ground-contact facet faces. Cure under pressure jig.
8. Insert EVA cushioning drop-in to midsole cavity.
9. Roughen and prime upper bond surface (sealed strobel edge). Apply contact cement.
10. Align lasted upper to midsole datum. Heat activate bond at 65°C, 90 seconds minimum.
11. Press in jig, cool minimum 30 minutes before removing.
12. Final inspection — bond integrity, metallic yarn consistency, midsole edge crispness, tonal color match.

Quality Control Checkpoints
Knit ConsistencyMetallic fleck yarn must read uniformly across the upper surface. No bald patches or concentration areas. Inspect under D65 and incandescent lighting before assembly.
Strobel Edge SealFull perimeter seal confirmed before bonding. No gaps. UV light inspection after bonding to confirm no adhesive wicking into knit face.
Bond Line IntegrityUV light inspection. Minimum 10mm bond width at all points. No adhesive squeeze-out above bond line. No gaps in bond perimeter.
Tonal Color MatchUpper, midsole, outsole, laces, and hardware must read as cohesive black family under D65. Any color deviation requires rejection and investigation before proceeding to bulk.
Midsole FinishSemi-gloss target confirmed on first-off midsole. Approve under D65 before sample assembly.
Midsole Edge Crispness0.8mm minimum radius maintained. No crush deformation from assembly process.
HardwareD-ring pull test — 50N minimum. Eyelets must not distort surrounding knit structure.
Weight TargetUnder 400g per shoe (US 9). Knit upper is lighter than synthetic leather — target adjusted accordingly.
Flex Test20-cycle minimum at forefoot. No midsole delamination. No knit separation at strobel seam.
06Sample Stage Milestones
Stage Activity Owner Target
Design LockUpper material, midsole geometry, colorway, and construction method confirmed. This document becomes the working spec.Design / Dev LeadM+0
Factory QualificationConfirm upper factory has active engineered knit capability with metallic yarn experience. Gates all sample work.SourcingM+1 ⚑
Mfg Path DecisionPrint vs. mold committed for midsole. Print is recommended. Mold path requires geometry rationalization — allow additional time.Dev / SourcingM+2 ⚑
Knit Strike-offApprove knit base yarn, metallic fleck density, and zone construction from loom. Approve under D65 and incandescent. Both lighting conditions must be signed off.Materials / DesignM+2
Last ConfirmationLast profile confirmed. Toe spring, volume, and heel seat approved for knit bootie construction.DeveloperM+2
L/L SampleUpper built at factory. Midsole 3D-printed. Full tonal black assembly. Color match and proportion review only — no wear testing at this stage.Factory / ProtoM+4
L/L RevisionBond line, tonal color match, midsole semi-gloss finish, and knit consistency corrections addressed.DeveloperM+5
W/L SampleFull assembly. Pressure mapping. Flex test. Strobel seam integrity. Metallic yarn shed/durability test. Traction confirmation. Weight check.Biomechanics / DevM+6
W/L ReviewWear test feedback. Knit durability assessment. Cushioning tuning. Midsole geometry rationalization if required by wear data.Design / Dev / BioM+7
LL/WL ConfirmationCombined sample. Factory-made. Final geometry, final colors, bulk feasibility confirmed. Costing locked.Factory / DeveloperM+10
Sales SampleFinal construction. Hero colorway. Photoshoot-ready. Multi-lighting photography session completed.FactoryM+12
Bulk ProductionMOQ confirmed. Knit factory cell qualified. Print facility qualified. QC protocol in place across both production environments.Factory / SourcingM+16
⚑ CRITICAL PATH
Two gating decisions at M+1 and M+2 must run in parallel — factory qualification and midsole manufacturing path. A delay on either cascades through the full sample schedule. Knit strike-off approval at M+2 is a prerequisite for the L/L sample and cannot be skipped. FW26 target requires Design Lock no later than Q1 2025.